Manufacture of artificial silk hose



Dec. 6, 1938'. A. G. BOUHUYS I 2,138,954

MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL SILK HOSE Filed Oct 16, 1956 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Dec. 6, 1938. A; G. BOUHUYS 2,138,954

MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL SILK HOSE Filed Oct. 16, 1936 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 6, 1938 UNITED- STATES PATENT orrics 2,138,954 MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL SILK HOSE Aleidus G. Bouhuys, Enka, N. 0., assignor to American Enka Corporation, Enka, N. 0., a. corporation of Delaware Application October 16, 1936, Serial No. 106,035

lustres. or within a centrifugal pot or bucket. After col- 5 Artificial silk fabrics have to a large extent relection, the filaments are subjected to the usual placed natural silk fabrics particularly in those treating operations involved in the manufacture instances where high gloss effects are desired of artificial silk yarn. In case the freshly spun such as in the production of draperies and the filaments are collected and treated on a bobbin,

like. However, in the manufacture of hosiery they are later twisted in the normal manner on a 10 and other wearing apparel artificial silk yarn has twisting bobbin. If the filaments are collected not met with the same demand as it has in other in a centrifugal bucket, they receive the desired fields because of certain objections thereto. One twist normally imparted-by the rotation of the of the objections to the use of artificial silk yarn bucket.

in the manufacture of hosiery was that normal This invention, however, further contemplates 1r, artificial silk yarn presented an objectionable the individual collection of the high lustre filahigh gloss when used for this purpose. Methods ments and the low lustre filaments on separate have now been devised for the production of debobbins or in separate pots. If collected on seplustered and partly delustered artificial silk yarn, arate bobbins, the composite yarn may be later and millions of pounds of such yarn are produced formed and twisted by means of the so-called ring 20 annually in the United States. Such delustered twister. Naturally, the collection in separate yarn has to a limited extent replaced natural pots provides'for a-twisted yarn of low lustre and silk yarn in the manufacture of hosiery, but it a twisted yarn of high lustre. These twisted; has been found that such replacement of natural yarns of different lustres may then be twisted silk yarn by low lustre artificial silk yam has together toform the composite yarn.

been made possible only because artificial silk Other objects and advantages of the invention 25 yarn was sold at a rate considerably below the will be apparent from the following detailed deprice of natural silk yarn. scription when considered in connection with the It is now generally recognized that hosiery proaccompanying drawings wherein:

duced from the better grades of artificial silk yarn Figure 1 illustrates diagrammatically a sepa- 30 compares favorably with hosiery made of natural rate extrusion of low lustre filaments and high silk yarn from the standpoint of dye amnity, lustre filaments into the same spinning bath and wearing characteristics and the like. However, means for bringing together in parallel relationin view of the historical development of the hoship the different lustered filaments and collectsiery art, natural silk hosiery has continued to be ing the same in an untwisted condition on a 35 in great demand and to be thought of as being bobbin; the preferred hosiery, particularly since natural Figure 2 is illustrative of the so-called "upsilk hosiery presents a glittering effect as 'comtwister wherein the low lustre filaments and pared with artificial silk-hosiery. So far as I high lustre filaments collected on the bobbin in 40 am aware, attempts to produce fabrics and par- Figure 1 are rewound and twisted together on a 40 ticularly artificial silk hosiery which present the twisting bobbin; glittering effect comparable with natural silk ho- Figure 3 illustrates diagrammatically a mechsiery have been unsuccessful, and it is this feaanism for the individual extrusion of high lustre ture in particular to which my present invention filaments and low lustre filaments into the same is directed. spinning bath including means for individual ,It is an object of the present'invention to pro conveyance thereof and collection upon separate duce a composite artificial silk yarn, which when bobbins; manufactured into fabric will present a glittering Figure 4 illustrates a ring-twister on which the effect, while maintaining in the yarn and fabric yarns produced by the mechanism illustrated in 5 the advantages normally present therein. Addi- Figure 3 are twisted to form a composite yarn; tionally, this invention contemplates the produc- Figure 5 illustrates diagrammatically a mechation of a knitted fabric which is capable of being nism for the independent extrusion into the same freely stretched and uniformly dyed with freedom spinning bath of low lustre filaments and high from streaks or rings, and which presents the lustre filaments, and the separate withdrawing 5 glittering effect characteristic of natural silk faband conveying means for the filaments, together ric irrespective of the dye with which it is imwith a centrifugal spinning bucket for collecting pregnated. the composite yarn and twisting the same by cen- A further object of this invention is the protrifugal force developed from rotation of the said duction of a composite artificial silk yarn from a bucket; p

multiplicity of h gh lustre fi aments' n a ulti- Figure 6 is similar to Figure 5 except that the 60 3 Claims.

This invention relates to fabric formed primarily of artificial silk yarn, and more specifically to a knitted fabric formed of artificial silk yarn composed primarily of yarns having different plicity of low lustre filaments in which the low lustre filaments and the high lustre filaments are independently extruded, coagulated and stretched and are then collected together either on a bobbin I low lustre filaments and the high lustre filaments have common withdrawing and conveying mean and Figure 7 represents an enlarged section of knitted fabric such as that formed on the usual type of hosiery knitting machine, the fabric be ing knitted from the composite yarn produced by the mechanism shown in Figures 1 and 2, Figures 3 and 4; Figure 5 or Figure 6.

Referring to the drawings in detail and particularly to Figure 1, a spinneret III is arranged below the surface of a coagulating bath l l for the extrusion of a plurality of delustered cellulosic filaments l2 into the said coagulating bath H.

' These filaments I 2 are passed through the coagulating bath H and led over a thread guide I3 to and around a godet wheel M. The filaments may be passed one or more times around the godet wheel after which they are directed to an idle roller 15. From the idle roller 15 the filaments comprising the yarn body are passed through a traverse guide 16 and collected upon a bobbin H in the usual manner. A spinneret Illa similar to spinneret ID is arranged in a side by side relationship below the surface of the coagulating bath H for the extrusion of undelustered or lustrous filaments 12a into the said coagulating bath. The filaments comprising the yarn body 12a are passed over a thread guide 13a and thence to the godet wheel 14 over which the filaments l2 are being passed concurrently. The high lustre filaments |2a and the low lustre filaments I2 may be brought together as they are passed over the godet wheel 14 one or more times, or they may be'maintained separate by means of the thread guides |3a and 13 respectively. By means of the godet wheel I4 the filaments 12a are conveyed along with the filaments l2 to the aforementioned idle roller 15, whereafter the untwisted high lustre and low lustre filaments are collected on the bobbin 11 after they have passed through the traverse guide IS.

The bobbin l1 preferably rotates at a peripheral speed higher .than the peripheral speed of the godet wheel l4 whereby tension is placed upon the filaments between the bobbin and godet wheel. This imparts a predetermined amount of stretch to the filaments at this stage of the process. The godet wheel I4 is positively driven by any suitable means, not shown, the peripheral speed of which is changed during the spinning operation in order to increase the stretch on the filaments according to the teachings of the Thurmond Patent To. 2,076,801. This procedure is desirable during the period of formation and collection of the yarns in order to enhance the dyeing qualities thereof, as more fully set forth in the foregoing Thurmond patent.

The high lustre and low lustre yarn collected on the bobbin l1 may now be treated in the usual way; for instance, it may be subjected to the normal treatments including desulphurizing, washing, bleaching and drying. After having been processed, the untwisted yarn is conveyed by means of a suitable support l8 (see Figure 2) to a position whereby theyarns can be readily twisted. The yarns I 9 are passed through a ring guide 20 and a traverse guide 2| to a twisting bobbin 22 and the high lustre ancl'low lustre yarns are thereby combined and twisted to for a composite body.

' ning bath 25 for extruding a high lustre spinning solution and a low lustre spinning solution therefrom respectively in a manner similar to that shown in Figure 1. yarn bodies 26 and 21 are in this case withdrawn from the spinning bath 25 by means of separate godet wheels 28 and 29. The yarns 26 and 21 are thereafter led around idle rollers 30 and 3| re-- spectively to be ultimately collected in untwisted condition on bobbins 32 and 33. In collecting the high lustre filaments and the low lustre filaments separately as distinguished from the mechanism shown in Figure l the speeds of the godet wheels and the bobbins are controlled and maintained similar to the godet wheel and bobbin exemplified in Figure 1.

After the usual processing and drying the untwisted yarn bodies are each conveyed to a position in advance of a ring twister 34, as shown in Figure 4, and twisted to form a composite yarn.

Figures 5 and 6 exemplify mechanisms for producing composite yarns according to the centrifugal spinning method. In first referring to Figure 5, a spinneret is shown at 35 immersed in a coagulating bath 36. A low lustre cellulosic solution is forced through the spinneret 35 by means of a pump, not shown, and the resultant filaments forming a yarn 31 are passed through the coagulating bath and led around a'godet wheel 38. In the form shown the filaments 31 are caused to pass one or more times around the godet wheel 38 and are then conducted to a second godet wheel 39. The filaments are also caused to pass one or more times around this godet wheel 39 and are then directed over an idle roller 40. Another spinneret 4! is immersed adjacent the spinneret 35 in.the spinning bath 36 and an undelustered or high lustre cellulosic solution is forced through the openings in the spin- The filaments forming the neret 4| whereupon the resultant filaments 42 are are maintained the same with respect to each other. However, the godet wheels 39 and 44 are operated at greater peripheral speeds than the respective godet wheels 38 and 43 whereby a stretching action is imparted to both the low I lustre filaments 31 and the high lustre filaments 42 duringthe spinning operation. It is preferable to change the speeds of the respective sets of the godet wheels while the yarn passes therebetween in accordance with the disclosure of the Thurmond patent referred to above. This permits the formation and collection of the yarns under a gradually increasing stretch in order to improve the dyeing properties.

The groups of filaments 31 and 42, as they are passed over the respective idle rollers 40 and 45. are directed into contact with each other and passed down through a vertically reciprocating funnel guide 46, whereupon, due to the action of a rapidly rotating spinning bucket 41, the respective groups of filaments are spun and twisted into a composite yarn by means of the centrifugal force developed from the rotation of the said bucket. The composite yarn is deposited within the bucket 41 in the form of a yarn cake 48. The cake 48 may now be subjected to the usual treating and drying.

Referring more particularly to Figure 6, high: lustre and low lustre filaments are extruded from the spinnerets 49 and 50 in a similar manner as described with respect to Figure 5. These groups of filaments 5| and 52 are maintained separate.

by means of thread guides 53 and 54 respectively during their passage to the same godet wheel 55 and are thereafter led around this godet wheel 55 to a second godet wheel 56 and thence to an idle roller 51. the high lustre filaments and the low lustre fila-' ments over the godet wheels and the idle roller, the groups of filaments may be maintained separate or brought together. The groups of filaments are finally directed downwardly through a spinning funnel 58 and collected in spinning bucket 59 to produce a yarn cake 60 in the same man-' ner as that described in connection with Figure 5.

The source of cellulosic solutions supplied to the spinnerets shown in Figures 1, 3, 5 and 6 may be located at any convenient point. In supplying high lustre and low lustre cellulosic solutions the spinning machines comprising a plurality of spinning positions may be fitted out with independent position feed lines arranged parallel to each other and adapted for feeding alternate spinning positions with high lustre solutions and low lustre solutions respectively.

The twisted composite yarns produced in accordance with the procedures outlined in Figures 1 to 6 inclusive are now in condition for forming into a fabric. The composite yarn may be dyed either before or after it is formed into a fabric.

In the manufacture of hosiery the knitted fabric is normally in the form shown in Figure '7. It has been found that those portions of the composite yarn body which present glossy exterior surfaces when knitted into the fabric will so refiect the light as to cause the fabric to present a glittering effect or glints probably due to theexistence of a dull lustre surface which interrupts the otherwise continuous lustrous effect. It is to be understood that such effect may also be attained in woven fabrics.

As a specific example of one completeprocess in which hosiery has been produced in accordance with the present invention, a viscose solution was prepared in the usual manner so as to have a viscosity of 7,000 centipoises, a cellulose content of 7.5% and a caustic soda content of 7%. The spinning solution was ripened to a sodium chloride index of Hottenroth maturity of 10 c. c.

(see Reinthaler and Rowe, "Artificial Silk 1928, page 68). a

The viscose was delivered to a 30 hole spinneret at the rate of 6 grams per minute and extruded therethrough into a coagulating bath heated to 42 0., having approximately the following composition:

Per cent Sulphuric acid "10.0 Sodium sulfates"; 13.0 Zinc sulfate 1.5 Glucose 6.0 Water 64.

During the concurrent travel of dition of 10.0% pine oil and 1.2% titanium di oxide calculated on the weight of cellulose con-, ,tent in the viscose to constitute a delustering agent was prepared and extruded through a 30 hole spinneret at the rate of fi grams per minute into the same coagulating bath. The filaments were led to and around two godet wheels in series and then over an idle roller as described in connection with the lustrous filaments aforesaid.

The two groups of filaments or yarn bodies were contacted at a point subsequent to their passage over the 'idle rollers and directed by means of a vertically reciprocating funnel guide into a spinning pot rotating at the rate of approximately 8,000 R. P. M. The passage of the yarn bodies into the pot rotating at 8,000 B. P. M. at'the rate of 70 meters per minute caused the composite yarn to be twisted to a low twist of 3 turns to the inch. The cake was doffed from the bucket, wrapped in cheesecloth and washed with soft water in the usual manner and dried. The dried cake was processed in the well known manner for desulphuring, bleaching and dyeing the yarn.

The thus prepared yarn was used in a conventional knitting machine for the fabrication of stockings in the usual way. Hosiery prepared from the yarn above described was found to present the glittering effect characteristic of the better class hosiery knitted from natural silk yarn.

As another specific example of a complete process in which hosiery has been produced in accordance with the present invention, viscose was tion:

- I Per cent Sulphuric acid-"n; 10.0 Sodium sulfate 18.0 Zinc sulfate 1.5 Glucose 6.0 Water 64.5

The filaments were led to and around a godet wheel and over an idle roller in the manner described above.

A second viscose solution was prepared and extruded in a similar manner except that to the spinning solution there was added titanium dioxide to the extent of 1.2% of the total solution as a delustering agent.

The two groups of filaments or yarn bodies were-collected on the same bobbin in the manner illustrated in Figure 1. The yarns were washed, desulphurized, bleached, dyed and driedin accordance with the usual procedure and passed to a I an up-twister,- which formed the yarnsor group of filaments into a single composite yarn having a twist of 5 turns per inch. The spools of yarn were'coned or reeled into skeins and used in a standard machine for knitting hosiery and the hosiery produced was found to present the'glittering effect characteristics of hosiery fabricated from natural silk yarn.

It has been found that a composite yarn produced in accordance with this invention when twisted from 3 to 5 turns per inch produces the most satisfactory results on yarns when the yarns are formed in accordance with the specific examples above described. The respective godet wheels in the first specific example referred to were operated so that the peripheral speeds of the first godets in the paths of travel of the filaments were 60 meters per minute and the peripheral speeds of the second respective godets were 70 meters per minute. During the spinning operation the speeds of the second godets were increased to 75 meters per minute and in this way the yarn bodies were increasingly elongated as they were collected in the respective buckets or pots. In the second specific example the godet wheel was operated so that the peripheral speed was 65 meters per minute and the peripheral speed of the bobbin was 70 meters per minute. During the spinning period the peripheral speed of the bobbin was increased to 71.5 meters per minute and in this way theyarns were increasingly stretched to effect uniform dyeing thereof.

The glittering efiect referred to above is noted when the fabric is viewed at an angle to its surface. When hosiery formed from natural silk yarn is viewed in such a way that the angle between the line of sight and the surface of the fabric is an acute angle (preferably less than the surface of the hosiery presents aglittering effect which is apparently due to the light being reflected from a large number of small surfaces, having the appearance of points. Hosiery formed of artificial silk yarn prepared from filaments of uniform lustre presents a dull monotonous gloss lacking the glittering appearance characteristic of hosiery formed of natural silk yarn. Hosiery and other fabrics formed ofyarn prepared in accordance with the present invention are seen to possess the same glittering appearance that is noted in connection with fabrics formed of natural silk yarn. The similarity is marked that fabrics formed of natural silk yarn cannot be differentiated from those formed of artificial silk yarn prepared in accordance with the present invention by ordinary visual inspection.

Whereas the apparatus and process have been described as applied to the drawings, various other modifications and changes may be made to fall within the scope of the invention.

What I claim is:

1. A process of producing knitted hose from viscose thread which, when'so formed, presents a glittering effect similar to that presented by a knitted natural silk hose which comprises extruding a viscose solution containing a delustering material to produce delustered filaments, passing the filaments through a coagulating bath, extruding a normal viscose solution to produce lustrous filaments, passing said filaments through 'the' same coagulating bath, stretching the retering efiect and a degree of luster similar to that of knitted natural silk hose is presented.

2. A process of producing hose knitted from viscose thread which, when so formed, presents a glittering effect similar to that presented to knitted natural silk hose which comprises concurrently extruding a normal viscose solution and a viscose solution containing a delustering material through the same coagulating bath to produce a group of lustrous filaments and a group of delustered filaments, withdrawing and propelling the two groups of filaments in side by side relationship from the bath by a common draw-off means and collecting the filaments on a bobbin, processing and drying in package form the untwisted filaments, twisting the two groups of filaments to obtain a low twist and form a single thread, and knitting the thread into hose so that lusterous portions of the thread occur which are of such size and so spaced that a glittering effect and a degree of lustre similar to that of knitted natural silk hose is presented.

3. A process of producing hose knitted from viscose thread which, when so formed, presents a glittering effect similar to that presented to knitted natural silk hose which comprises concurrently extruding a normal viscose solution and a. viscose solution containing a delustering material throush the same coagulating bath to produce a group of lustrous filaments and a group of'delustered filaments, withdrawing and propelling the two groups of filaments in side by side relationship from the bath by a common drawoff means and collecting the filaments in a centrifugal bucket, processing and drying in package form the twisted thread, and knitting the thread into hose so that lusterous portions of the thread occur which are of such size and so spaced that a glittering effect and a degree of lustre similar to that of knitted natural silk hose is presented.

' ALEIDUS G. BOUHUYS. 

